German chef Heiko Grabolle, from the Biergarten Pomerânia restaurant, talks about the trendy fish
Fish-based dishes are on the table of people from Santa Catarina at this time more than at any other time of the year. It is during Lent that tradition guides Christians to prefer white meat. And in Santa Catarina there is a champion species of preference: tilapia.
For every 10 kilograms of freshwater fish produced in the State, eight are tilapia. In Brazil, this rate exceeds 60%. It is easy to grow and grows as fast as it reproduces. At the table, it can be served in different ways. This is why it is also appreciated by kitchen professionals.
“Tilapia has become a fashionable fish because the fillet is meaty, has a neutral flavor and the bones are concentrated right in the middle, easy to remove. Cooks and people at home have increasingly discovered the versatility of tilapia”, analyzes German chef Heiko Grabolle, from the Biergarten Pomerânia restaurant.
Heiko himself developed a special dish for Lent in Pomerode, a national reference city for Easter traditions and which promotes Osterfest — until March 31st, always from Thursday to Sunday, from 10am to 8pm.
According to the chef, tilapia is an ingredient that connects Brazilian and German cuisines. It is also common in restaurants in the European country, often imported from producers here. At Biergarten Pomerania, which celebrates the relaxed atmosphere of German bars, it is served breaded, accompanied by mayonnaise or French fries.
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Health
Because it has a mild flavor, no strong odor and low fat content, tilapia is ideal for a healthy light meal. It is a food rich in proteins, but with a low amount of carbohydrates. Contains vitamins A, B and D, calcium, iron, zinc and DHA acid, of the omega-3 type.
Economy and tradition
According to data from Epagri, Santa Catarina has 31 thousand fish producers. At Biergarten Pomerânia, tilapia come from ponds located in the Testo Rega neighborhood, in Pomerode. The Gaulke family has owned the reservoirs for 25 years, but only five years ago transformed the fish into a business, with a structure for slaughter, sanitary controls and a regular clientele.
In Lent 2023, the family sold 12 tons of fish, processed into slices or fillets.
“Tilapia represents 95% of our sales”, says Lore Wachholz Gaulke, who works alongside her husband, Rubens.
Dry lagoons
But the majority of aquaculturists in Santa Catarina are amateurs (93%), whose activity is a supplement to their income. An aspect that also brings a cultural component to the cultivation of tilapia.
As Holy Week approaches, smaller producers are preparing for the tradition of drying the lakes. In a single day, all the fish (mostly tilapia) is removed to supply neighbors, surrounding communities and live fish markets. In other words, for a large part of the State, a single species of fish unites religiosity, economy, gastronomy and culture.
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