Founded in 1894, the Ipanema neighborhood is now 130 years old, as a gastronomic hub and an antenna for the latest in fashion and behavior in the city.
The charming space between Copacabana and Leblon pays homage to José Antônio Moreira, the Baron of Ipanema, and in the Tupi-Guarani language, it means “stinking lake”, “good-for-nothing river” or “water unsuitable for swimming and fishing”. It’s worth saying that this has nothing to do with Ipanema Beach, which was recently considered the second best in the world.
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An essential destination for those who only have a few hours in Rio or even for those from Rio who want to stroll around the city itself, Ipanema combines splendid nature, vast commerce, great options for coffee, lunch and dinner and very interesting art galleries.
Check out X tips below for enjoying a full day in the neighborhood.
Breakfast at Sel d’Ipanema
Start with something new! From May 1st, the winning kiosk of VEJA RIO COMER & BEBER will open at 9am, serving breakfast. The menu was created by chefs Jérôme Dardillac and Carlos Cordeiro. It will be possible to taste delicacies such as flamed cornbread with butter and fleur de sel (R$ 25.00) and smoked salmon tartine with avocado, sour cream, dill and radish (R$ 70.00). Don’t forget to try the mate el tamarindo (R$ 35.00).
Avenida Vieira Souto, QC 11 and QC 12 (between stations 9 and 10). From 9am
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Tour of the G20 House
Taking advantage of being on the waterfront, walk towards Arpoador and make a convenient pit-stop at Casa de Cultura Laura Alvim, which was transformed into Casa G20 so that locals and tourists can “feel the atmosphere” of the summit that will bring together the main leaders of the world in Rio in November. Writer Ruy Castro curates an exhibition about the city, on display from July, and Nelson Motta puts together a series of shows with tickets at popular prices for the space. Even if the programming hasn’t started yet, it’s worth getting to know the house and the initiative.
Avenida Vieira Souto, 136. From 1pm
A draft beer and an open pie at Belmonte
Leave Casa G20 and follow the same sidewalk to the corner of Rua Farme de Amoedo, where the classic Belmonte stands with the most spectacular view of the city. Find a table on the balcony and enjoy an ice-cold beer. Waiters circulate around the place with the chain’s hit on trays, the pies open. The dried meat with catupiry (R$ 23.90) is one of the flavors available.
Avenida Vieira Souto, 236. From 11am
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A stroll around the Ipanema Forum
Who doesn’t like to spend time looking at shop windows? Pay the bill at Belmonte and follow Farme de Amoedo to Rua Visconde de Pirajá, the main street in the neighborhood. Turn left and walk towards Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz. Close to Rua Joana Angélica is the iconic Forum de Ipanema, a gallery that has been bringing together the most daring in fashion for four decades.
The space was the first in Rio to have designer stores. They launched there, transferred there or still have big names such as Alice Tapajós, Aspargus, Blue Man, Dress To, Farm, Fernanda Chies, Frankie Amaury, Lenny Niemeyer, Manufact, Maria Filó, Mary Zaide, Salinas and Yes Brazil, among others.
Lunch with the best Brazilian food at Rudä
Champion in the Brazilian category of VEJA RIO COMER & DRINK, Rudä is the right place for those who want to eat well. Walk two blocks from the Forum to Rua Garcia D’Ávila and discover this fantastic atmosphere of inspiring food. From the menu, chef Danilo Parah suggests the trio of oysters (R$ 49.00) with cashew vinaigrette and green apple pickles.
Among the main dishes, Parah, also in charge of the kitchen at Mäska, in the same neighborhood, highlights the octopus with jambu (R$ 112.00), pasta cooked in moqueca sauce with jambu, grilled octopus, semi-dried tomato and creamy ricotta. To sweeten it up, go for the cheese pie (R$42.00), which combines baked cheese cream, almond tuile, guava pickles, roasted strawberries, raw milk ice cream and fleur de sel.
Rua Garcia d’Ávila, 118. Tuesday, from 12pm to 11pm; from Wednesday to Saturday, from 12 pm to midnight; and Sunday, from 12pm to 8pm.
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Watch a play at Teatro Candido Mendes
One of the most traditional stages in the city is a kind of rabbit’s foot for budding actors and comedians. It was there, for example, that Minha Mãe É Uma Peça premiered, a success that elevated Paulo Gustavo to the pantheon of performing arts, in 2006. It was also there that Monica Martelli premiered the blockbuster Os Homens São de Marte e é Pra Lá Que Eu I’m going, a year early.
This weekend, there will be a production of O Auto da Compadecida and Impro Fight, a comedy show filled with improvisations. Tickets via the theater website.
Rua Joana Angélica, 63
Good drinks at Nosso
To end the night, invest in Nosso Gastrobar, also in Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz. There are three perfect spaces to create that atmosphere, starting with the eye-catching balcony on the 1st floor. One floor above, the setting is more intimate at the tables for two. A flight of stairs further, and there is the cool terrace.
Chef Bruno Katz’s menu, which is constantly being renewed, features creations that go beyond the obvious, made with striking ingredients, as well as drinks from mixologist Daniel Estevan, who was recently inspired by Amazonian ingredients to formulate the new drink menu.
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Rua Maria Quitéria, 91. From 6:30 pm
Oh! Of course, be sure to set aside some time for a swim and a mate with lemon on the sand.
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